Ayam Goreng 99

Tables turn over fast at this happily packed place. Grab one, fill in the order form, relax and take in this simple room with philodendron crawling across one wall before enjoying pepes (anchovies, mushrooms or tofu roasted in banana leaves), satay, noodles and succulent, must-have chicken (thigh is best). Have soup, kangkong, or fresh young coconut juice to offset drier fried and grilled selections. Finish with a dangerously sweet dessert or surprisingly refreshing Soda Susu laced with condensed milk and rose syrup. Take note: petai - faintly bitter, aptly named stink beans - should only be ordered when dining alone.