Berta

Christine Manfield is cooking at Berta for the next five weeks. That's reason enough to celebrate. Sub in a menu of Italian dishes at the hands of the Sydney legend as famous for her sweets as she is her globetrotting flavour profiles and cooking techniques, and it's a pasta party you'd be a fool to miss out on.  

The dark room's buzzing – Manfield devotees are here to worship and she's even brought in some of her old staff from Universal to work the floor. But there's no lack of that casual fun vibe Berta's become known for, either.

Sensitive to the restaurant's DNA, Manfield applies her flair to a smart and very Berta-esque menu (I'm going with Italianese peppered with a hefty dose of personality).

Kick off with snacks such as perfectly seasoned, lightly battered cauliflower fritters or Jenga-style panizza, crisp-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside chickpea chips, served here with a bright, piquant romesco sauce.

Thinly sliced rump steak comes covered in sweet, sticky and luxurious caponata finished with big flakes of parmesan. Think of it as minute steak with a Sicilian twist. 

Pea fans, your time has come – meet the maltagliati – short, wide ribbons of firm, fresh handmade pasta doused in red-hot blobs of soft calabrian pork sausage and ricotta finished – and wait for it – with about three tonnes of fresh green peas and a tangle of pea tendrils.

Oh, but that buttermilk brined pork chop. That parmesan and polenta crumbed pork chop. That shallow fried pork chop with a side of brussels sprout and apple slaw. So pink, so juicy, so worth ordering twice. 

Unlike the lemon meringue. It looks pretty, with its bright lemon curd spilling out over a perfect-looking meringue dressed with perfect sweet raspberries (such a rare treat!) but it's stuck to the plate and the meringue is kinda impenetrable. Boo.

Not to worry. Because if there's one thing that can cure the aching disappointment of a failed meringue, it's a Valrhona​ chocolate tart layered with gooey salted caramel, caramel ice-cream all dusted with toasted almond praline.

And if there was ever a slight doubt in your mind about ordering a scoop of sheep's milk yoghurt sorbetto, erase it immediately. So light, so delicate, so ... sheepy.   

Friends, Romans and Surry Hillbillies, it was heartbreaking when chef O Tama Carey​ dropped the Berta apron strings, but we're glad Manfield's picked them right back up again, even if it's just for a blink. Don't miss out. 

THE LOW-DOWN
Pro tip Book in for a Tuesday sagra​ night, and try four courses of Manfield's food for $65. 
Try this The maltagliati is a spicy, green pea-laden delight
Like this? The handmade pasta at Sagra is worth seeking out. 62 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst 2010. 02 8307 0430