Billy Kwong

And your time starts now. Yes, eating at Billy Kwong can feel like dining by stopwatch. There's hungry demand for seats at this everbusy contemporary establishment, with queues hustling outside and a brisk turnover of tables. But the frenzy is understandable, given the menu. There's the famously great duck, served with a flourish of organic plums; and the fried biodynamic eggs - a crisp tornado of flavour, heightened by organic tamari and homemade XO sauces. (No wonder the place has an international fan base that includes NY chef David Chang.) Don't be deterred by the nutritional halo of stir-fried chickpeas, beans and lentils - this dish packs a sweet, nutty, and salty wallop. Ginger-charged old man saltbush leaves reflect Kylie Kwong's dedication to native foods and there's a feel-good factor to her eco-conscious approach. Despite the uncomfy seats, eat-and-run atmosphere and a few under-flavoured (but wholesome) dishes, it's always worth the pre-dinner line-up.