Cafe Nice

Arrivederci Italy, and bonjour France. The team behind Sydney's molto italiano Fratelli Fresh and the popular Cafe Sopra chainlet has gone all Gallic with its new Circular Quay bebe, decked out in sunny yellows and shades of macaron. The smart move here is to concentrate on nicoise cuisine, historically a mix of Italian and French influences, which means it's not that much of a stretch for former Cafe Sopra chef David Young. So instead of pizza, he's baking rich little slabs of pissaladiere topped with caramelised onions, olives and anchovies. Spaghetti comes with pistou rather than ragu, and polenta is teamed with roquefort instead of gorgonzola. The big orders are a postcard-pretty, deconstructed nicoise salad complete with soft-boiled egg, and a share-platter of roast chicken served with sweetly glazed carrots and pistou-drizzled radishes. Although staff can be run off their feet, the whole high-energy package is quite the charmer, right down to the lavender creme brulee.