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Chi and Co

14/20

Asian$$

If the 'awesome fried stuffed eggplant', 'beef-me-up ribs with chilli and tamarind sauce', and 'tapioca shots with coconut custard' on the menu weren't enough of a sign, then the high-ceilinged, modern-as-hell interior by designer Matt Woods shouts out the news. This is a big, bold, modern pan-Asian kitchen that is determined to shake up our ideas of dining out Asian-style. Hence the odd sunny yellow chair, the tables set with white plates and wine glasses, the giant panda graphics and the cryptic neon sign. And we've got to admit, it's huge fun; especially if you ignore the slightly heavy steamed pork dumplings, and order chilli-spiked spanner crab on betel leaf, a lush, warm Vietnamese beef curry, and claypot rice studded with prawn, chicken, lap cheong, enoki mushrooms and lily buds, topped with a fried egg. Staff are both savvy and sweet, and those little tapioca shots are cute - gula melaka (Malaysian palm syrup and tapioca desserts) revisited for a new generation.

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