Cipri Italian

The current generation of Sydney Italian restaurants has a certain style: snappy interiors tempered with a hint of family nostalgia and an essentially straight-up menu with a few modern twirls. Cipri Italian fits the template. Its generous dining room is enveloped in atmospheric dimness lifted by nifty spot-lighting. Menus and wine lists in contemporary sepia tones feature charming '50s snaps from the family album. Then there's dolcetto and nebbiolo by the glass or carafe; and house-made pasta such as finely textured pappardelle with flaky-rich duck ragu. Three Cipri brothers run the show, both back and front of house, proffering luscious Sardinian suckling pig on red cabbage and pistachios, a special of wild barramundi on saffron mash, and nutty, sesame-studded cannoli filled with nougat semifreddo for dessert. Only deep-fried anchovy and mozzarella-stuffed zucchini flowers were oil-heavy. Come here for generous food - hearty, lush portions, good flavours - delivered with that mix of sassiness and sincerity that's so very, very Italian.