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Fu Manchu

Asian$$

At first glance, this Darlinghurst stalwart with its long, narrow front room appears perfect for a transient bowl of noodles and an icy beer on your way home from work. And while it plays that card nicely, there's much on the menu that'll make you want to linger. It's Chinese and Nonya cuisine, so expect a combination of complex flavours. Steamed Beijing dumplings, crunchy wontons and salt-and-pepper pumpkin and eggplant make worthy starters, before you move onto earthy, aromatic black bean pork ribs and delightfully crisp-skinned twice-fried spatchcock. Coeliacs and vegetarians rejoice, this is no token two-dish diner; there's an entire menu dedicated to you that rivals the regular.

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