Kai Sydney

Ooh, a new Japanese restaurant. Oh, it's in Neutral Bay. There's something about the lower north shore that neutralises the highs and lows of Japanese dining, leaving one long stretch of me-too, identikit and same-as food. Harsh? Then you tell me the difference between Dan Dan, Kabocha, Katsura, Kenta, Kintara, Koh-ya, Koume, Kyushu, Momoyama, Sushi Samurai, Sushi Studio, Tanpopo and Tsukasa.

Pause for effect. Thought so. Yes, there is the odd standout (Jugemu & Shimbashi for hand-made soba noodles) but otherwise, it's hard to tell them apart.

And now, up pops Kai, in what was Totoya or Toyota or Mitsubishi or Mibitsushi or somesuch, right here in Teriyakitempurasushi sashimimaki-greenteaicecream Avenue, otherwise known as Military Road. It stays true to form with its daggy sandwich board out the front and undelectable position at the back of a not particularly illuminating arcade. There is a vague attempt at decor - a clutch of bamboo poles by the door and a possibly nautical rope hanging on one wall. Otherwise, colours are thankfully dark, tables are clothed and papered, and the sushi bar is pride of place. There is a balcony, too, with a nice breeze coming in off the car park.

But I live in hope, because Kai has been set up by Masa Kakinuma, who was previously manager at the reputable Ju-Rin restaurant in Crows Nest. Chef Hiroshi Miura not only worked with Kakinuma-san at Ju-Rin, he was also executive chef of the famed Unkai restaurant, which set a new benchmark for Japanese cooking in this town in the 1990s.

The other thing that gives me hope is the specials board. I've learnt to trust a hand-written daily changing specials board in a Japanese restaurant; especially one that lists such things as garfish sashimi, yellowtail fish balls in small hot pot, and grilled mackerel.

The garfish sashimi could not be simpler, or better. Dramatically presented as slivers of very fresh fish in a kaleidoscopic wheel on an equally dramatic glass plate, with a little lemony ponzu sauce for dipping, it's so precisely sliced that each sliver has a GT-stripe of the fish's distinctive silver marking. And it's only $10.

The yellowtail fish balls are served in an intense, clear fish broth with fresh beancurd, enoki mushrooms and antioxidant-rich shungiko (fresh chrysanthemum leaves); beautifully done, with an almost challenging, austere purity of flavour. It's another bargain at $9.50. The mackerel fillet is big enough to catch its own wave, nicely scorched and not overly salty - and costs a very reasonable $8.

If nothing else, go for the best beer on the north shore, an icy-cold Hokkaido on tap ($7). There is also a well-structured Pizzini Pinot Grigio 2010 with hints of pear and spice for $42, among the puzzling preponderance of South Australian shiraz on the wine list, along with 15 sakes listed next to their Sake Meter ratings and polished rice grain percentages (the more rice is polished, the higher grade the sake).

Going a la carte, I find a likeable dish of deep-fried prawn paste on tofu ($9.90), best described as agedashi dofu meets Chinese prawn toast, with a classy bonito sauce adding the right amount of stickiness. Good old kara-age chicken ($12), a rockpile of deep-fried thigh nuggets, is a little oily under its golden armature and I remain unconvinced that scallops are ever going to beat prawns or soft-shell crab for sheer eating pleasure in a tempura roll ($14).

Late in the week and at weekends, lunches are bento boxes only and typically generous. A sushi box features eight well-made nigiri sushi, miso soup, seaweed salad, pickles and chawan-mushi custard. You could lunch here quite happily and feel quite content, if the music didn't get you first. It's mildly hysterical, consisting mostly of synthesised versions of '60s hits.

In the evening, desserts feature black sesame ice-cream and Japanese-style tiramisu and affogato made with green tea instead of coffee, from a helpful picture menu.

So despite Kai looking like your basic, standard-issue Japster in Military Road, there is charming service, a caring owner, a capable chef, authentic food with an occasional modern touch, fabulously cold beer and extremely good value. Perhaps the same sort of surprise lies in store all the way up and down Military Road but somehow, I doubt it.

tdurack@smh.com.au