La Grande Bouffe

There's something utterly satisfying about that sticky-lips feeling you get from a classic, buttery French meal. More than one dish at this inviting Rozelle stayer gives that feeling; perhaps it's the lemony jus with a whole quail - stuffed, roasted and seriously succulent - served with shiitake mushroom and wilted spinach. Roasted veal loin has the same effect, the slices of medium-rare meat matched with leek fondue, morels and peas. Cleaner, fresher flavours impress, too, as in an entree of beetroot-cured salmon; the delicate, bright-coloured slices topped with a disc of horseradish bavarois. Dessert sees further classic comforts, from chewy, caramel-y pear tarte tatin, to creamy, crisp-topped creme brulee. As simply satisfying as the food are the charming French-accented service, and the decor - equal parts cosy and classy - with dark timber tones and black Perspex chandeliers. By day, there's a midday souffle or pain au chocolat and coffee from house-roasted beans for breakfast.