La Scala on Jersey

At this first-floor deco parlour with its gun-barrel view down Oxford Street, the city skyline sparkling beyond, the kitchen has settled into a comfortable modern Italian groove. Originally set up by Darren Simpson of Aqua Luna and La Sala fame, the baton has now been handed to chef Ruben Martinez. Spicy, spreadable 'nduja salami from Kogarah smallgoods legend Pino Tomini Foresti arrives on carta di musica (crisp, crunchy flatbread) with mixed pickles. Super-light batter and fresh produce dovetail to forge a fabulous fritto selection of Yamba prawns, flathead and zucchini flowers, with the zing of lemon and dill mayo for dipping. Service is efficient and welcoming, both cheekily friendly and non-intrusive at the same time. Saltbush lamb rump is nicely teamed with Italian greens and chickpeas, while the saffron-infused fish stew - brodetto marchigiano - is a beauty, with kipfler potatoes absorbing the last of the amber juices. Like its operatic namesake, La Scala hits many high notes.