Onesta Cucina

Located just off the main street in the Bradman borough is this big-hitting Italian don where a modest setting belies robust and seasonal flavours. Cappiello-designed Campari posters on the walls prompt negroni cravings, so best team a tipple with wild olives or a fine sopressa plate, before moving on to the extensive and ever-changing menu of primi and secondi. Creamy lamb's brains with truffle potato puree showcases the kitchen's classical strengths, lasagne al forno has more meaty layers than a Sopranos episode and a handsome cotoletta of veal dressed in crumbs of comforting rosemary and parmesan may well be a signature. It's unfortunate, then, that a humdrum banana tarte tatin didn't soar quite as high as what's come before. Service is as affably friendly as it is frustratingly slow, especially as the evening progresses. Thankfully, there's enough to like about the buzzy and mood-lit space to ride out the wait for the bill.