Silk's Brasserie

'Please resolve any disputes over desserts amicably and fairly' reads the menu at this ochre-walled, 18-year-old veteran of the Blue Mountains dining scene. This means some lengthy diplomatic discussions as to who gets the wobbly citrus cheesecake of fresh Jannei curd on a hazelnut praline base and who takes the dense, rich, warm bittersweet chocolate fondant with passionfruit sorbet. Before that, however, it's a game of whose entree is the tallest - the soaring, moulded compilation of scallops, avocado and lightly marinated salmon or a hearty pile-up of seared duck livers, baked polenta and black pudding with caramelised fig. Roasted Tassie salmon on a green papaya salad with nuoc cham dressing has real get-up-and-go, but corn-fed chicken breast with caramelised apple and chorizo suffered from being wan and pale, and the chorizo was missing in action. Prices are on the high side, but the dining experience is pleasant and relaxed.