Spice I Am

Just as Thai food is all about the harmony of flavours, Sujet Saenkham strikes a nice balance between his three inner-city eateries and this latest Balmain branch. First impressions lean towards the slicker Darlinghurst restaurant - statement lighting, dramatic black lacquer tables and a mildly addictive starter of crisp Phuket-style fritters of school prawns nestled on a betel leaf. Authentic favourites from the much-loved original Surry Hills diner also feature - fresh pastes and spices are evident in both grilled chicken (gai yang) and a mild sour curry dotted with prawns and squares of cha-om (acacia leaf) pancake, though the former could do with a little more time over the flame. The northern Thai (Isaan) flavours of House on Elizabeth Street are evident in a satisfyingly fiery salad of crisp rice, fermented pork sausage and peanuts. Complete the balancing act with a cooling dessert of sago and melon in coconut and palm sugar, and you'll be pleased that this antidote to corner takeaway has arrived on the peninsula. Also at Darlinghurst & Surry Hills