Just like visiting an old friend at Teta's Deli

In 2021, the estimated population density of Potts Point was 8686 people per square kilometre. Sitting inside Teta's Deli, a tiny Lebanese cafe on a pedestrian-friendly strip of Roslyn Street, every manifestation of local resident seems evident from the wide front window.

Outside, a man with two phones and a huge moustache sits on a stool drinking Teta's dark strong Lebanese coffee, served traditionally with pouring jug and a small handle-free cup. Two women pass by rolling a massive suitcase down the middle of the street, while a muscled Lamborghini owner leans on his bonnet and a cat sniffs a bicycle.

Inside Teta's, the mood is serene. Owner Dina El-Kaddoumi chats to friends sitting at the counter while she prepares food. The whitewashed space, featuring a tall cement counter, patterned black-and-white tiled floors and birds of paradise flowers in a low fat vase, is not, refreshingly, styled to within an inch of its life. 

It feels, as El-Kaddoumi delivers a plate of toasted zaatar pliage on a doily-layered plate, like visiting a friend's place - low-key, friendly and offering bonus access to Lebanese deli goods. Named for El-Kaddoumi's grandma, her teta, the tiny one-room space, which opened in June, is El-Kaddoumi first cafe.

"It's my happy place," she says. "It's my way of breathing."

Seating is minimal and dark timber shelves, put up with the help of friends and family, carry jars of homemade zaatar mix, pickled turnips, carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, wild baby cucumbers, olives and baby eggplant stuffed with garlic, walnut parsley and chilli. 

There are also jars of hand-rolled labneh in olive oil and imported Lebanese carob molasses, halva, olive oil soap and bay leaf soap.

"The soap sells fast," El-Kaddoumi. "It's good for hair and skin and helps sensitive skin."

There is nothing trend or hype-conscious about Teta's Deli. The menu of two dishes, toasted zaatar or lahm bi ajeen (lamb) pliage, is written on a roll of brown paper on the wall opposite framed photos of El-Kaddoumi's grandma, mother and uncle. On the counter are apricot-coated biscuits made by El-Kaddoumi's mother, one of a rotating range of homemade cakes, biscuits or Lebanese savouries each day.

The toasted zaatar pliage, which is vegetarian, is El-Kaddoumi's version of manoush or Lebanese breakfast pizza. Using dough from her uncle's bakery in Mount Druitt, it is luscious spicy stuff, pressed and halved and filled with labneh, olives, onions, mint, tomato and cucumber, aided by El-Kaddoumi's zesty homemade zaatar. A piping hot yellow chilli is served on the side.

El-Kaddoumi, who grew up in the local area, was compelled to open a cafe to carry on the love she received from her late grandma.

"I just wanted to create a place where everyone feels at home," she says. "Somewhere people can have good food and coffee but also just relax and feel welcome."

This sense of homely sociability is no joke. At one point El-Kaddoumi explains she is popping to the opposite footpath to chat more deeply with her friends.

"Just wave your hand at me if you need anything," she says.

So, for 20 minutes I am the sole resident of Teta's, sitting on the wooden bench seat beside a vase of pink gerberas eating the delicately spiced zaatar pliage and listening to the growly voice and music of 1990s band Morphine playing through the speaker.

It is delightful. Almost nothing is happening inside and out. The man with the moustache continues drinking his coffee. Birds cheep and the sunshine creeps in. I could be almost anywhere; Europe, the Middle East, New York.

El-Kaddoumi has plans for more outdoor seating and, further down the track, a liquor licence to serve alcohol and special group dinner nights. As Teta's is open late into the day, wilted passersby would do well to pull up a stool, confab with El-Kaddoumi and drink her pomegranate and rosewater drink served with crushed ice in the summer climes. 

"I get so many different customers, all age groups, all different backgrounds and everybody is so nice," she says. "I just chat to them, like we're catching up. Suddenly, I've made all these amazing, beautiful friends, which is so crazy. I'm just like, 'Oh, that's so nice'."

The low-down

Vibe Tiny cafe and deli with Lebanese food and restive sociableness

Go-to dish Toasted zaatar pliage with labneh, olives, onions, mint, tomato, cucumber.