The Blue Swimmer at Seahaven

Like bluebottle popping and spiritual enlightenment through sunburn, fish and chips by the sea is one of those must-do coastal holiday activities and this bustling little beach bistro is a cracking place to do it. Translucent white fish is fleshy and hot under a crunchy batter and takes as well to a Murray's Whale Ale as rash-vested children do to the neighbouring river. There's much to like here, from duck liver parfait bolstered by port jelly to cured kingfish on fennel crispbread, prettily plated with daubs of saffron aioli and paper-thin radish discs. Lamb lovers are thrice catered for with slow-roasted ribs, crumbed brains and lamb and pine nut sausage (use your Berry Sourdough Bakery loaf to sponge up the sticky sauce). You'll need to book ahead in summer as there is always a steady flow of the thonged and saronged as well as locals keen for a chinwag and creme brulee. BYO Wednesday to Thursday and Sunday.