Xanthi

David Tsirekas made a name for himself at Petersham favourite Perama, but Xanthi ups the ante in an Ottoman-inspired space with a billowing golden tent ceiling, cocooned from the shopping mall madness. Yet it's still casual enough for a mix of business, dates and multi-generational Greek families to feast together in front of the open kitchen. Share plates are worthy of the most Greek of gods: crunchy, creamy mint, dill and celery leaf skordalia croquettes, lemony, oregano-flecked Cypriot haloumi, and crisp fried school prawns bathed in honey and fish sauce. Rabbit stifado is rippingly good: delicate, fresh, hand-rolled filo encasing moist braised meat, alive with wafts of honey, cinnamon and clove. The signature lamb skaras is so, so tender, simply paired with string beans and baked chunks of lemon-oregano potato. For dessert, the Garden of Aphrodite - sheep's milk custard, crystallised rose petals and ouzo-flavoured meringues - is worth ordering for the name alone. Staff are sweet, helpful, and, vitally, on hand to help with Greek wine orders.