Hanabishi

Forget a fashionable address or slick designer interiors: the only flash you're likely to see here is in chef Akio Soga's knife skills with a piece of premium wagyu fillet or tuna belly. Hanabishi's focus is on authentic cooking, using the best seasonal produce - a path the restaurant has happily stuck to for more than 25 years, much to the pleasure of its suit-and-tie-skewed clientele. With a large menu on offer, a light, fresh starter may be in order: Soga-san's choice of sushi may include shimmering slices of snapper and kingfish; three kinds of Okinawa seaweed with rich sesame dressing; or razor-thin slices of raw wagyu beef. This should preserve the appetite for a basket of deep-fried soft-shell crab or crumbed loin of superbly tender kurobuta pork. Err on the healthy side with seafood, such as the popular Patagonian toothfish baked in cedar, and splurge on one of the worthwhile dessert tasting plates of six or nine treats.