Hot, hot, hot Newtown fave... Hartsyard.
Hot, hot, hot Newtown fave... Hartsyard. Photo: Lidia Nikonova

33 Enmore Road Newtown, New South Wales 2042

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Opening hours Tue-Sat 6pm-late
Features Accepts bookings, Bar, Groups, Wheelchair access, Vegetarian friendly, Licensed
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Gregory Llewellyn
Payments eftpos, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 02 8068 1473

Crunchy school prawns poke their heads out of a pyramid of popcorn; a slab of maple bacon hitches a ride on a brick of pulled pork; and a peanut butter and banana sundae is topped with pretzel ice-cream and salted fudge. It’s hard to know who’s having the most fun at this loud, unpretentious, hot, hot, hot Newtown fave - the diners or the kitchen. Most head straight for meatopia with the already legendary brined and smoked fried chicken, or tender beef brisket with smoky, rich barbecue-pit beans and battered onion rings. But chef Gregory Llewellyn is increasingly showcasing his vegie patch with elegant weekly specials of raw and cooked vegetables served on lush white bean hummus, or whole heads of roasted broccoli topped with smoked anchovies, pepitas and lardo. Pastry chef Andy Bowdy’s amazing soft-serve ice-cream changes daily, and makes this a destination in itself.

And ... Try a pickleback martini, of Plymouth gin, dry vermouth and house-made dill pickle.

Downtown New York bar.
Best bit Food that’s about flavour and fun, not fads.
Worst bit The club-loud music.