Kenzan Article Lead - narrow
Kenzan Article Lead - narrow 

Lower level, Collins Place, entry via 56 Flinders Lane Melbourne, Victoria 3000

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Opening hours L Mon-Fri; D Mon-Sat
Features Accepts bookings, Business lunch, Licensed, Lunch specials, Private dining
Prices Expensive (mains over $40)
Chef Kaname Komatsu, Koichi Takeuchi
Seats 100
Payments Diner's Club, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 03 9654 8933

Generations have enjoyed Kenzan, and, after more than 30 years, the so-called empress of Melbourne's Japanese restaurants maintains her reign. With a modernised look and expanded menu (reworked in 2011), Kenzan's tranquil dark-wood and lacquer finishes reflect the elegant finesse of its food. The menu still features favourites like tempura, tatsuta-age (fried, marinated chicken) and sukiyaki in refined fashion. And you'll always find more unusual fare on the daily specials, such as grilled, salted kingfish cheek (the simple cooking highlighting the particular tenderness and rich taste of this cut), or an exquisite spicy tuna and scallop salad. Eel is at its oily best in an entree of grilled eel and cucumber in sweet vinegar or the more familiar main dish with sweet soy sauce on rice. And Kenzan's always-popular sushi bar proves its mettle, with dedicated sushi chefs crafting exemplary sushi using high-quality seafood that's delicately arranged and subtly garnished.