Kis Cucina

Kis Cucina's message, 'keep it simple', translates across a variety of registers in this fine suburban restaurant. Simple is the feel of Kis Cucina's dining room; it's no frills furniture spilling onto one of Graceville's busiest thoroughfares. Simple is the friendly service, at once casual and unobtrusive, and simple is the singular pleasure of the small wine menu, showcasing limited release Australian vintages. At its best, simple is the open-faced menu, celebrating straightforward cuts of meat and seafood that are classically paired, such as lightly crumbed calamari with a perfectly piquant caper and chive mayonnaise. Sometimes this simplicity gets a little muffled, as with the spanner crab risotto, whose chilli component was overbearing. No such clouding in the pizza or salad selections, which are great value for a shared entree or one dish meal. But simple's finest translation comes in the dessert menu. Here, taste the clear harmony of minimal tarts: blueberry on blueberry with a fine frangipane, or chocolate ganache, smooth as a mirror.