La Svolta

Friends of pizza: you've heard about the one true pizza? The Vera Pizza Napoletana. It's the one made by members of an official association, based in Naples, to strict specifications about ingredients, approved equipment, oven temperature and cooking time. There are just nine AVPN-anointed restaurants in Australasia, and La Svolta is one of them. But, I wonder: does a true Napoletana maketh a good pizza?

La Svolta, one of at least three pizza restaurants on Hampton Street, is heaving, even on a school night. People are met, ushered through to the bar to pick up takeaways, or to tables, which are promptly set with water and glasses. Kids are set with individual entertainment packs. We're talking a jigsaw, crayons, stickers, word puzzles and find-it games. Light-footed staff glide around the double-fronted space effortlessly. They gather around the fellow who has just received a Nutella pizza with a candle in it to sing Happy Birthday, then somehow arrive back at their stations, greeting new arrivals as the clapping starts.

There is order to La Svolta - there has to be to turn over two sittings at weekends, as they do - but it's warm and charming. Staff, who all speak Italian and English with a broad accent, are all over it, without being over it. I haven't even tasted the pizza, and already I like it.

There's nothing crazy on the pizza menu (no licorice dust, no cream of dates), just traditional toppings. What could be more true Napoletana than the Napoletana? Probably the margherita. It is the standard measure of pizza. Ours is oval bordering on oblong. I didn't bring my ruler, but it looks bigger than the "no larger than 11 inches" edict of the APVN. It has the requisite raised edge crust, it's elastic and easily foldable. The tomatoes (San Marzano plum tomatoes grown in the soil below Mount Vesuvius) spooned and spread in the centre taste fresh and bright. The creamy mozzarella is melted in blobs, and some whole basil leaves, stems and all, are tossed on top after baking. It's good.

They're not the prettiest pizzas: misshapen, charred and lumpy, with toppings added in a flourish. On our Napoletana the whole kalamata olives are generously and evenly dispersed, but there's a big cluster of anchovies to one side. I'm beaten to that piece of mouth-tingling saltiness. Drats. Olive-oil base pizzas include that magical combination of porcini, taleggio, mozzarella and speck.

There are pastas and a smattering of mains but pizza rules, even with all the rules.

Do … or don't (depending on your disposition) come on Wednesdays when wedding-type band STTA (Something to Talk About) performs.
Don't … Do gluten? They offer gluten-free bases.
Dish ... Margherita.
Vibe ... Fast, loud and smooth.

goodfoodunder30@theage.com.au