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Lanterne Rooms

Lanterne Rooms Article Lead - narrow
Lanterne Rooms Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Malaysian$$

Tucked unobtrusively among Campbell's small shops, the exterior of this Chairman and Yip sibling gives no clues to the wonderful fusionist-leaning world within. The design is clever but subtle, with bamboo shutters, dark wood beams and filmy curtains dividing the space into airy rooms. Service is quiet and efficient, the shared dishes hitting the table with perfect timing. A delicate dish of creamy tofu coated with a wisp of batter atop eggplant and roasted tomatoes is beautifully balanced with a black sesame dressing; and marinated scallops and tender calamari on a pickled vegetable and watercress salad is equally impressive. Skin-on chicken with galangal, lemongrass and sambal okra is tender enough to cut with a fork, while a nicely cooked ling fillet comes with a light but heady mix of pickled pineapple, chilli and capsicum. The highlight of the meal, however, is a side of baked pumpkin with a divine garam masala emulsion. Dessert seems unnecessary, but who can resist zabaglione with berries?

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