Le Petit Bourgeois

John Salisbury has manned the pans here for almost a quarter of a century. In that time, the children from the area's family homes have grown up and moved out, and the surrounding parks have weathered a few droughts, but little has changed here. John still dishes up traditional bistro-style French cuisine, while wife Wendy tends front-of-house. The enduring stripped-back decor, generously spaced tables and reliability in the kitchen are just as the locals like it. A popular kick-off to the meal is the plate of a dozen hors d'oeuvres, which may include Sichuan beans, blue goat's cheese tart, grilled quail or duck terrine. Mains may feature pink slices of rib-eye lamb fanned beside layered, creamy dauphinoise potato or a hearty portion of confit duck, paired with a salad of greens and orange slices. And a meal here wouldn't be complete without a souffle: choose one of three options - perhaps the Grand Marnier?