Le Tres Bon

The Canberra Times Top 20 for 2013: No. 12

It's kinda neat to have a place that's so French, so provincial, that I'm sure each morning they have to chase away food and travel novelists thinking they're in Provence. The lace curtains, the checked tablecloths, the strange little artefacts on every surface. It literally oozes France, which is the way it should be with Christophe and Josephine Gregoire running the place.

Le Tres Bon is smack in the middle of the village of Bungendore, so not too far from the capital, but there are plenty of beds in town if you are going to have that last armagnac.

The best time to visit is during the truffle season, when there's a separate menu where Gregoire weaves this pungent fungus through his many dishes that are perfect for this purpose.

The menu is packed with every dish that you crave when thinking of French country food: a cassoulet that is so good he has named it after himself, teaming with confit this and plump that, juicy and rich; creme brulee of foie gras, just so creamy and textural, heaven for offal lovers; snails and frog legs for those who go full-on French, wear your beret and affect zat accent; beef paupiette; moules a la Provence.

You get the idea, if you've ever craved this sort of food, save yourself a motza on air travel and putting up with left-hand-drive cars and just come out to Bungendore.

The wine list is a mash-up of French regional wines and some locals; it's all well priced and fits in well with the food so you can overlook the simplicity and some narrowness in the offering.

Desserts are where Gregoire pulls out all stops and launches invariably into vanilla-bean brulee, chocolate tarts, crepes suzette, and cheese.

The service is always super friendly, and you don't have to stumble through school days French to be understood.

Le Tres Bon positions itself really well with its uncomplicated regional French cooking in the countryside of Bungendore.