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Why from-scratch Lene is one to watch

Dani Valent
Dani Valent

Orecchiette scattered with salted ricotta.
Orecchiette scattered with salted ricotta.Eddie Jim

Contemporary$$

If not for a lockdown job loss and a landlord open to a sweet deal, 26-year-old Cameron Williams would still be an up-and-coming chef at someone else's restaurant. His business owner ambitions would be bubbling away but dauntingly distant.

Everything shifted. Now what's bubbling away is the sourdough starter in Williams' very own professional kitchen.

Lene (say "Lenny") is lovely. It feels fresh and enthused with a conversational energy boosted by local artists' paintings on the walls.

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Lene showcases local artists' paintings on its walls.
Lene showcases local artists' paintings on its walls.Eddie Jim

The food skews to contemporary and European, underpinned by techniques and ideas Williams gleaned from his apprenticeship at Jacques Reymond, and stints at Martin Benn's Sydney fine-diner Sepia, Dave Verheul's Lesa, and Copenhagen's highly rated Kadeau, among others.

Everything is made from scratch. The sourdough starter dates back decades (snaffled from a longstanding Melbourne baker, we better not say who), cream is cultured and flavoured to create excellent butter, pasta is made in-house, even the bottarga (fish roe) is cured right here.

These elements turn up in simple but winning dishes that feel like they've been loved all the way to the table.

Whipped cod roe with vinegar-soused potato chips and house-cured bottarga.
Whipped cod roe with vinegar-soused potato chips and house-cured bottarga.Eddie Jim
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Whipped cod roe is served with vinegar-soused potato chips infused with bracing freshness. Orecchiette is tossed with cime di rapa, brightened with lemon and scattered with Williams' own salted ricotta. Simple roast chicken turns multidimensional with a complex aromatic sauce. Leftover sourdough starter becomes naturally leavened donuts piped with strawberry-gin jam.

Lene isn't quite the restaurant it aims to be because finding staff has proved impossible, meaning Williams is often alone in the kitchen. It's a sign of the integrity of his from-scratch project that he's not short-cutting (you'd be amazed how many restaurants are buying in pre-cooked duck legs and pork belly).

As we tumble into the new year, Lene is definitely one to watch.

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Dani ValentDani Valent is a food writer and restaurant reviewer.

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