Longrain

Couples face a dilemma at Longrain. Sit side-by-side (like most), or opposite each other at the big communal tables? Perch, with cocktail, at the bar? Take a knee-high table for two near the entrance? Longrain can get loud, especially if you have a lively foursome up against you, and the music's keeping beat. But the food within this sassy converted warehouse is a conversation-stopper, bursting joyfully with chilli, coriander and kaffir lime. Hand-chopped beef tumbled with chilli and nutty roasted rice comes to pile on crackers or witlof leaves. Jungle curry creates converts, with tiny eggplants, soft chunks of barramundi, and perky holy basil. Egg-net blanketed pork, prawns and peanuts, and caramelised pork hock are delicious fixtures. Service is slick, though Longrain's bossy rulebook can frustrate - you won't get seated till your whole party has arrived. But it's the CBD's top Thai, and that's enough to make you forgive and forget, especially after a scoop of coconut sorbet.