Lucio's

Lucio's commitment to art and hospitality shines in the picture-laden walls and in owner Lucio Galletto's beaming presence. For nearly 20 years, this Paddington stalwart has proudly showcased the dishes of Galletto's native Liguria, with the occasional modern tweak. Lamb shank tortellini in porcini broth is a truly splendid dish in which everything comes together, while prosciutto, figs and artichoke get a textural fillip with gorgonzola crumbs. Asparagus and fennel pollen risotto with deep-fried soft-shell crab was let down, however, by slightly too al dente rice and a too-liberal use of parmigiano. Roasted veal is tender, its sauce right, and its mustard seeds bright, barely requiring the long slice of veal tongue on top. A crumbly, chalky, bitter-chocolate and chestnut dessert slice had a huge alcohol hit, and an over-reduced syrup did no favours to too-sweet and creamy hung ricotta. Well-intentioned service may sometimes seem confused, but Lucio's practises the most admirable art of all - keeping its devoted customers happy.