Malamay

You'd expect oriental panache from the Chairman and Yip crew, and that's exactly what you get with their newest venture, featuring the spice and chilli-laden charms of Sichuan cuisine. Malamay, in the canyons of Barton near the big hotels and Parliament House, is decked out in clubby, striking black and red. Matching the strident set-up, the house-smoked trout gives you a hit of smoke, heat, salt and fish. It comes with chilli and dried scallop and 'quick fry milk' - a scrambled mix of egg white and milk. Cold-smoked chicken has its own smoky charms, with a lacquered finish and mustardy sauce. Sichuan pepper is used liberally here, and a sous-vide wagyu cheek gives you that addictive lip-numbing buzz, with a fragrant, minty flavour. Braised pork ribs with preserved plum are deep-fried and sweet, a combination reminiscent of popcorn. It's fun and inventive, with great service and wine.