Maris

Maris is a prime example of the genus 'charming neighbourhood restaurant', with more polish and better food than most. Owner-chef Patrick Craig delivers the goods with well-placed confidence in his abilities, in an unlovely extremity of Glenferrie Road - a location that somehow reinforces the food magic. Prawns receive star billing. basil-accented in a seductive deconstruction of brik pastry; in supporting roles, poached, in a tarragon-inflected crab soup; and in a perfectly realised risotto, carefully infused with saffron. Roasted lamb shoulder and cracked wheat salad with almonds and cumin seeds may steal the show, but for apple and rhubarb crumble - deconstructed, naturally, with a shot glass of apple jelly and vanilla yoghurt foam singing back-up. The chef's legendary mousse of Valrhona chocolate has also been broken down into its components and gloriously corrupted with salted caramel ice-cream. Our advice. sell up, move closer to this place.