Melbourne Wine Room

Since the Guide last visited Melbourne Wine Room it has changed hands, with Karen Martini selling up after 15-odd years to chef Paul Raynor, of Middle Brighton Baths. Out went the old staff, and with them some of the buzz and confidence of the dining experience they had built. Another change is that all meals are now taken in the (often noisy) front bar. Regulars might mourn the extinction of Martini's signature (vast) rib-eye; in its place there's a standard-sized fillet (200g) or a 400g T-bone and a number of other 'larger plates'. Expect competent but unsurprising offerings like Atlantic salmon with a watercress salad or an asparagus risotto. Entrees are a little more zingy: a crowd-pleasing serve of smoked salmon might come with a well-judged horseradish cream, there's a generous charcuterie plate for $20, and who doesn't love a big plate of carefully fried salt-and-pepper calamari?