Merricote

This polished yet welcoming local punches above its weight on the gentrifying Westgarth strip, with super-smart staff and impeccably presented food. Start with house-made charcuterie, perhaps mild duck rillettes spread over crisp lavosh, then move on to substantial snacks such as pork shoulder ‘bitterballen’ (croquettes) with dijon aioli. Owner-chef Rob Kabboord mines his Dutch heritage with a hearty blizzard of boerenkaas (farmouse cheese) over a beautifully textured assembly of egg yolk, puffed cereal, apple and wakame, although there are global accents too: a sharp green harissa with cured kingfish and nuggets of cucumber and kohlrabi, or a lilting vanilla foam with blue-eye cod, celery and fried potato. Desserts are pretty and inventive, perhaps shortcrust tart glittering with jewels of lemon curd, violet jelly, marshmallow and yoghurt sorbet. With its Persian rugs and low-lit bulbs, Merricote is a place for lingering, so finish with a peek at the gloriously funky cheese trolley – it’s worth a visit in its own right.

And … There’s an enclosed courtyard out the back.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Sleek Euro bistro.
Best bit The perfect local.
Worst bit The parking.