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Mister Bianco

Mister Bianco, restaurant, Kew, Melbourne.
Mister Bianco, restaurant, Kew, Melbourne.Supplied

14.5/20

Italian$$$

Date nights, big nights, birthdays, family gatherings - Mister Bianco welcomes them all with aplomb, dishing up full-flavoured and heartily portioned Sicilian-leaning meals that are equal parts comfort and sophistication. Yellowfin tuna tartare pairs elegantly with cucumber gazpacho. Gorgeous gorgonzola dolce souffle is less to look at, but lovely, too. Crumbed lamb cutlets beg to be swiped through their deliciously piquant salsa verde. Steaks and pasta are strong suits. Garlicky squid ink spaghettini, house made, are tossed through a generous jumble of fresh seafood, which comes with a cutlery armory, for pulling split scampi and pipis from their shells. Its warm woody tones - bentwood chairs, dark timber floors, linen-clothed tables - and easy, watchful hospitality make this shopfront restaurant a popular, polished local. Pastry chef Maria Lantelme's desserts deliver a grand finale, as perhaps with a nutty chocolate semifreddo 'vienetta'. She whips up sublime birthday cakes to order, too.

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