Misuzu's

WHERE AND WHAT

Jewel-coloured lanterns hanging from plane trees signpost this Albert Park stalwart; salon-fresh dogs and their proud owners sit at outside tables in the villagey shopping strip. Misuzu's 17 years in this genteel bayside hood has won it plenty of loyal fans, who returned in droves at the start of last year after it was shut for renovations following a fire. The food might be described as more cafe-style than fully fledged Japanese restaurant - with appropriately non-wallet-gouging prices - but there's an infectiously easygoing vibe and food that sticks to the Japanese ethos of fresh, clean and tasty.

WHERE TO SIT

It's several venues in one, really - a cafe, a sake bar and a takeaway outlet. Kerbside action is an all-year proposition thanks to gas heaters and awnings, while the craft-heavy interior has been decorated in polished dark wood and the kind of lighting that makes everyone look 50 per cent more attractive, with options ranging from larger communal tables to tables a deux and bar seating.

WHEN TO GO

They're open daily from noon to 3pm and 5.30pm until 10.30pm.

DRINK

The small, mostly Australian wine list isn't going to win any awards, nor, for that matter, is the wine service, which seems to consist of bamboozled wait staff squinting at the menu before trying to find errant bottles. But to really get to the guts of the place, try Misuzu's ''Umami sake bar'', which features regional specialties of the hugely fashionable sake and shochu, or the range of Japanese beers.

EAT

The usual suspects are all present: respectable sushi and sashimi platters that compensate for their salmon-tuna-prawn-avocado straightforwardness with good produce and handling; agedashi tofu in a soulful, restorative broth; steamed chicken or prawn gyoza with a nicely balanced sweet-tart dipping sauce. Crisp fried kingfish collar makes a crunchy, sweet-fleshed treat with a messy tumble of salad vegetables, while bigger dishes include the rare-seared wafu beef steak with a tasty slick of sticky sauce. It's not all strictly Japanese; owner and chef Misuzu Kawano likes to dabble in pan-Asian influences, such as Malaysian laksa that goes Nippon-esque. The takeaway bar mostly features sushi and some of the vegetarian dishes that make the place well known among non-meat-eaters, including brightly coloured and multi-textured salads.

WHO'S THERE

Albert Park locals and their dogs, blow-ins and Japanese students.

WHY BOTHER?

For friendly local Japanese in a charming setting, it's hard to beat.

Misuzu's - 7 Victoria Avenue, Albert Park, phone 9699 9022