The Star, 80 Pyrmont Street Pyrmont, New South Wales 2009
|Opening hours||Lunch Sat from noon; Dinner Mon-Sat from 6pm|
|Features||Bar, Licensed, Accepts bookings, Accommodation, Degustation, Long lunch, Vegetarian friendly, Wheelchair access|
|Prices||Expensive (mains over $40)|
|Payments||eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard|
|Phone||02 9777 9000|
New York chef David Chang’s Sydney outpost is fine dining, by any standards, but it’s as counter-intuitive as fine-dining gets. There’s the sought-after izakaya-esque counter around the no-secrets kitchen, the AC/DC posters and matching soundtrack, and, of course, the artful dishes, served and explained by a series of youthful chefs. Chang’s greatest hits feature, such as his soft, steamed pork belly bun – uncommonly delicious with a squirt of Sriracha. Marron, seaweed and a ciggie-shaped salsify is delightfully fresh and fleshy. Beef tongue with watercress and fennel offers a new take on wagyu, though a marbled, dark chocolate-tasting short-rib with daikon and turnip is richness in overdrive. Desserts are a beauteous pleasure, particularly a small scoop-sized mandarin sorbet with coconut and egg. After 13 courses, the now famous sticky-sweet, ribbony pork shoulder ‘petit four’ can seem one inspired, eccentric dish too many, but any resistance dissolves in the first mouthful.
Wine/drinks: Superb and interesting with a variety of beer, wine and sake by the glass or bottle, as well as a matched juices menu; 12 wines by the glass
And…reservations on-line only.