Momofuku Seiobo

A quasi-religious experience... Momofuku Seiobo.
A quasi-religious experience... Momofuku Seiobo. Photo: Nick Scott

The Star, 80 Pyrmont Street Pyrmont, New South Wales 2009

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Opening hours Lunch Sat from noon; Dinner Mon-Sat from 6pm
Features Bar, Licensed, Accepts bookings, Accommodation, Degustation, Long lunch, Vegetarian friendly, Wheelchair access
Prices Expensive (mains over $40)
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 02 9777 9000

The decor is more serviceable than sexy and the casino location lacklustre. But take a seat at the bar that surrounds Seiobo's wide-open kitchen and everything else falls away. This is serious food, serious service and more fun than you can imagine. The 15-course degustation will certainly include New York chef David Chang's famed steamed pork bun with Sriracha. Then prepare to marvel at impossibly fine, perfectly spherical mushrooms, partnered with a smear of celeriac puree and unctuous blood sausage. Be wowed by the combination of beetroot and fermented cherry juice. Desserts often suffer from poor-cousin syndrome but here they are extraordinary, with peach mousse, almond ice-cream and shredded raw almond a highlight. Voyeurs will thrill at every moment in the kitchen, where the chefs are on their best behaviour and the attention to detail is on spectacular display.

And… The final course of caramelised pork shoulder never fails to excite.

Vibe A quasi-religious experience.
Best bit So many courses, so many flavours
Worst bit Securing your selected online booking.