71A MacLeay St Potts Point, NSW 2011

View map

Opening hours L Sat-Sun; D Daily
Features Licensed, Bar, Accepts bookings, Long lunch, Romance-first date, Vegetarian friendly
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Brent Savage
Seats 60
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 02 9360 4410

The fine line separating wine bars with food and restaurants with wine just got blurrier with this dazzling new venture from the Bentley boys. Designed by Melbourne's Pascale Gomes-McNabb, the dark, inviting space is hung with long strips of black sound-absorbent material that's an art installation in itself. House-cured meats, shaved on a hand-operated flywheel slicer, make a terrific start, then the kitchen sends out small, witty share-plates full of balance and poise. Artfully shaved heirloom vegetables and baby pink fir potatoes on a pure white buttermilk whey dressing are (almost) too pretty to eat, while a creamy, chunky brandade of salt cod and potato with green peas, mint leaves and pea shoots is a knockout. The food can be as simple as grilled baby corn or as envelope-pushing as octopus with tiny globe artichokes and sea banana succulents. How do you follow that? Probably with nectarine ice-cream, fresh nectarine, crunchy meringue and burnt butter crumbs.