Moroccan Soup Bar

Seemingly little has changed since Hana Assafiri opened her iconic vegetarian restaurant in a poky North Fitzroy shopfront in 1998. Her verbal menu, no-bookings and no-booze policies, like her fierce hospitality, remain eternal. The chickpea bake, a marvel of browned-butter, crispy pita, yoghurt and nutty chickpeas, is, as ever, the standout, while the seven vegies on couscous or eggplant turnover on rice give unassuming pleasure. Enjoy probably the cheapest banquet in town ($18), with dips and pita, a random selection of mains, a pistachio-packed pastry and some mint tea to wash it down. Moroccan Soup Bar is a monolith, outside of time or trend, but the other constant is the line out the door, so get there early.