Nihonbashi Zen

This little bunker in Chinatown has long been the last word in Melbourne for kushiyaki: simple flame-grilled skewers that rise above average yakitori by virtue of quality ingredients. An entire king prawn is served in its shell with just a pinch of salt and a wedge of lemon, tender free-range chicken breast is laced with a sour-plum sauce and crisp shiso leaf. Complexity is not a feature of the rest of the menu, either, which favours big flavours. Aged Angus beef might be served in thin, rare slices, with minced daikon radish and a sharp ponzu, while a soft-shell crab with shiitake is liberally coated with spicy mayo. Despite austere appearances, Nihonbashi Zen is not so formal. There are white tablecloths, but also paper napkins and disposable chopsticks. And though prices can feel high for what is essentially a solid city diner, produce is top notch. Host Emmy Yano is warm, chatty and adept at guiding diners through the exclusive sake selection.