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Nineteen23

Nineteen23 Article Lead - narrow
Nineteen23 Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13.5/20

Modern Australian$$

1923 was the year in which this elegant residence was built. It now houses the Silvermere guesthouse and its alluring dining room. The 1920s are still very much alive in its Art Deco fittings, vintage art prints and Marlene Dietrich in the air. The cooking, however, is definitely of the here and now, with options running through from breakfast to a full set menu - for house guests and visitors - at night. A very reasonably priced seven-course dinner could kick off with excellent gruyere and lemon thyme arancini, and go on to a colourful salad of tomato, goat's curd, white anchovy and basil. Next might come twice-cooked belly pork with cabbage and sriracha mayo, followed by a refreshing strawberry jelly and sorbet with berries, mascarpone and meringue. The only duff note was some chewy skirt steak served with a full-powered cafe de Paris sauce and skin-on potato chips that were too lightly cooked. Servings are generous and prices are as charmingly retro as the decor.

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