Nobu

If you like your sushi with a dash of theatre, Nobu is the ticket. The dark, clubby subterranean dining hall is a loud place to celebrate, and Nobu's global status lends a level of prestige and ambitiousness to the modern Japanese menu. Milky, translucent scallop sashimi comes dusted with dried red miso; sublimely plump and tender lamb cutlets are sauced with wasabi-tinged pepper gravy. Textural salads might be whole, fleshy shiitake mushrooms sprinkled with crunchy bonito flakes with a fruity, aromatic dressing or wood-oven baked squid with crisp-fried sweet-pea tendrils and a basil dipping sauce. Desserts can feel too complex, such as the espresso cup of frothy Suntory whisky foam over layers of crushed coffee-bean crumble and icecream, although creamy house-made icecreams such as Earl Grey and azuki bean impress. Nobu's squad of waiters might not be altogether in sync, but they are enthusiastic and keep the dial firmly tuned to a setting that says 'fun'.