Ormeggio at The Spit

Ormeggio means 'mooring' and this glass-sided dining room could so easily be another yacht bobbing at anchor, were it not for the stylish place settings and your charming Italian waiter. Familiar Italian classics are given a modern twist in a menu of smaller share plates, progressing through three or four courses to make up a meal. A tartare of venison with roasted nuts, radish and pickled apple is unexpectedly delicate and painterly, while roast squab with a smear of pistachio puree, pomegranates and quinoa lifts the humble roasted bird to another level altogether. Suckling pig excites and comforts all at once, served with a velvety parsnip puree and fermented cabbage for perfect acidity. This close to Middle Harbour you'd expect the fish to be good, and it is - pan-fried flounder with celeriac, smoked tuna and squid ink sauce is a standout in a memorable meal. Architecture and flavour meld beautifully in a dessert of rhubarb with buttermilk yoghurt and olive oil biscuit.