Oscillate Wildly

If the mostly 30-something clientele exudes a certain retro coolness, it might be that they're fans of the Smiths - the '80s band for whose tune this slender Newtown eatery is named. There's a retro coolness to the menu, too - a cursory 'jamon, peas, morcilla' or 'beef, radish, yolk' describing its new-Nordic-esque riffs on protein, chlorophyll and grain. Dinner is a gentle progression of small but prettily formed plates lined up beside eclectic wines, including the odd new natural. In 'kingfish, butter, rice', a puffed cracker with smoked butter dots and crudo of fish is textural sensation in overdrive. 'Pine, pistachio, foie' melts frozen foie gras shavings over meaty mushrooms and fluffy sponge; and 'rabbit, beer grains, samphire' is a triumph of meatiness, sharpness and rubbly crunch. There was the odd miss. groper with a listless coconut/ginger foam, a chocolate dessert sitting strangely with lemon verbena. But 'cheese on toast' is an essay in melted parmo wickedness. Service is unfailingly attentive, informed and a further exercise in retro cool.