Otsumami

Melbourne's take on Japanese food stretches well beyond the limits of sashimi and teppanyaki, and this cool restaurant more than steps up to the challenge of impressing diners with an expansive knowledge of Japan's culinary diversity. Seafood gets pride of place, with scents of kingfish, yellowfin and crab spilling from the open kitchen in the venue's heart. 'Otsumami' means simple food to go with drinks, but these are no bar snacks: try artfully arranged slices of wafer-light okonomiyaki or tiger prawns that are simultaneously sweet, salty and spicy. A fine line of shochus and sakes make good on the name, too. Also Peko Peko, 199 Smith Street, Fitzroy.