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Paladarr

Paladarr, restaurant, Alphington, Melbourne.
Paladarr, restaurant, Alphington, Melbourne.Mike Baker

14.5/20

Thai$$

Ever visited Thailand's northern region of Issan? Monk-turned-chef Chaloem Chaiseeha hails from those Mekong River surrounds, and loads his menu accordingly with starters offering a bang of chilli and heat. A shredded green pawpaw salad with peanuts and dried shrimp is full of zest and crunch. A minced chicken salad, gritty with toasted ground rice, bursts with coriander, spring onion and mint. Mains venture further into Thailand, including a sweetly fragrant massaman beef curry with cardamom and cinnamon, or deep-fried fleshy whole snapper curving around a fresh apple, mango and cashew salad. The heat subsides over dessert, with mango slices aside black sticky rice with coconut, or lemon tart alongside strawberries. Quietly efficient service, chocolate-toned interiors and leather couches and decorative Thai hanging lanterns provide an elegant backdrop. The focus here is Chaloem's food, delivered with a dollop of Issan education.

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