Pompei's

This Bondi Beach staple has an enviable reputation for serving up some of the sweetest finishes in town, so the tail end of its menu is the logical place to begin. The gelato alone is definitely worth a detour. The fruit in the Sicilian blood orange gelato tastes grove-gate fresh, and there's extra cause to smile with a new streetfront gelato counter that keeps takeaway customers from tracking through the restaurant. There's also a new back room, and a delicately refurbished, almost Venetian feel. The menu, however, is still pasta and pizzadriven, with the odd veal dish, such as supermodel-thin saltimbocca sitting next to a small hedge of sauteed chicory. You don't come here for bargain-basement prices or big portions. But the less-is-more philosophy has its upside, with a pizza selection that matches craftfully thin bases with quality ingredients: whether on a simple margherita, or a more complex combination of prosciutto, mushrooms and juniper berries.