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Pontoon sets sail below Stokehouse

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Cool off this summer with an Aperol spritz at Pontoon, St Kilda.
Cool off this summer with an Aperol spritz at Pontoon, St Kilda.Kristoffer Paulsen

14/20

Mediterranean$$

The sunset is particularly orange at Pontoon. The sun ripples off St Kilda beach's waters but also over bronzed and hairless arms holding Aperol spritz by the jugful. Come 6pm, the rebirthed downstairs area of the Stokehouse is a brilliant study in crisp linens, navy stripes and tangerine refreshments.

So in many ways, nothing has changed at this foreshore address since the fateful fire razed it in 2014. At the time my friend was refusing to be evacuated because she hadn't finished her champagne.

Today she's back, feeling initially miffed that it's self-service and no-bookings, but happy there's frosé pouring from the taps.

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Pontoon, downstairs at Stokehouse.
Pontoon, downstairs at Stokehouse.Simon Schluter

This low-key lower floor to the Van Haandels' standout foreshore fine diner, rebuilt over three years, in three parts (Paper Fish kiosk is out the front; Stokehouse floats above) has always been used much like a bar, even when it was technically a bistro.

Previously, it was open kitchens, bar seating and table service against a crisp, tile-heavy backdrop. In its refreshed state, Pontoon is almost what you'd call a nautical pub: a drinks first, food second, every sailor for herself proposition.

You may have seen it work at Sydney's Dolphin Hotel – everyone's favourite Tinder destination of now – and it's the same gun designer, George Livissianis, who has worked a miracle in understated tones. Raw decking and steely scaffolding stretches hither and yon. Fresh ropes coil around pillars, and chairs on the deck face the sea.

Braised ham hock and manchego croquettes with green tomato chutney.
Braised ham hock and manchego croquettes with green tomato chutney. Kristoffer Paulsen
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Inside, you stake a claim on a tiny bar table or banquette and guard it lest it's seagulled by other punters. It's as if the world's most elegant RSL has taken to sea.

In this brave new freewheeling world, you'll be getting up to order, fetch cutlery and plates and asking for your table to be wiped of debris.

Yabby Lake chardonnay, at $80, is the top-of-the-range bottle on a tightly priced list favouring South Australia and Victoria with the odd French and Italian wildcard.

Grilled hanger steak with chimichurri.
Grilled hanger steak with chimichurri.Simon Schluter

Are you ready? Let's begin.

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Chris Lucas' Hawker Hall has prepped head chef Lance Cameron for delivering a plethora of mod-Med-meets-Middle-East dishes that can be banged out in a hurry. An impressive span of flavours lands on your plate. Crisp filo lamb cigars staining yoghurt with a metallic sumac oil. Thinly battered cauli florets to swipe through cuminy schmears of hummus are one of the better versions around. Ham hock croquettes have the sticky texture of Cheez Whiz (in the best way possible), the bar staple lifted with cardamom-heavy green tomato chutney.

The speed with which dishes hit tables foretells some highs and lows. Charred corn salad piped with whipped avocado is unmemorable. Grilled prawns are steamrollered by an insistent fermented chilli sauce.

Riff on New Zealand's classic jelly tip ice-cream.
Riff on New Zealand's classic jelly tip ice-cream. Simon Schluter

Are you drinking a frosé with all of this, letting the sugar, ice and alcohol of the slushified wine curl its tentacles around your brain? You might as well embrace the fad of the summer in its native habitat.

And if a Corona is not where you would rather be, hiding between the mostly-big-name beer staples (the taps are geared towards Asahi, Boags, and Little Creatures) are rare gems like Bridge Road's meaty Chevalier Saison.

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So it's less a restaurant than it once was, but with Melbourne still in the grip of its grill obsession, you already guessed that rotisserie chickens (a little more dirty bird than burnished hen), charred radicchio with sharp valdeon cheese, pecans and sweet PX glaze (for which you need a love of a strong grill signature and bitter-sweet tang) and a truly excellent hanger steak, all crisp edges, crimson heart and bright chimichurri for herby bite are on the cards.

Sardines, harissa, crispy pastry, onion pickle
Sardines, harissa, crispy pastry, onion pickle Simon Schluter

Come dessert, you know that low key is the right key when Pontoon's riff on jelly tip ice-cream (that excellently trashy prize of New Zealand confectionery) feels overwrought. Sure it's a pretty pot of luxe vanilla creams, raspberry gels and fresh fruit, but everything else about Pontoon says summer on a stick. And that's the way we like it.

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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