Pope Joan

They make quite a team: Joan of Arc, Matt Wilkinson and Ben Foster. A nettle omelette - a plate-sized, tender disc - sings with almond shards, cauliflower shavings, goat's cheese and white anchovy. Traditionalists take comfort in bacon steaks, and regulars can't go past the 'Cuban' sandwich of pulled-pork or a smoky cassoulet of chorizo, squid and white beans. In warmer weather seating stretches across an Astroturf lawn to reveal a thriving kitchen garden. Weekends can get chock-a-block, but super-smooth staff make sure you'll get your turn with the pretty bone-handled cutlery.