Port Phillip Estate

The entrance is a great sweeping curve of rammed concrete that rises from this rural Red Hill ridge. The drama of the architectural exterior is surpassed by the natural beauty of the forested valley below, sweeping down to Western Port Bay, the sky often home to a pair of wedge-tailed eagles. Inside, tables are set with white linen and service is relaxed, sometimes too low-key. A wine list that reads like a love letter to Europe can threaten to outshine the food at times, a standard grilled steak maybe shown up by a superlative red. Start with stunning Tassie oysters with rice-wine dressing, or a plate of wood-smoked ocean trout enriched with a little crabmeat and avocado. A meaty morsel of roasted grouper pairs with saffron-infused white beans and mussels. Finish with velvety, smooth chocolate pudding and drunken cherries. The striking design and aesthetics can sometimes be let down by detail (flowers could be fresher, windows could be cleaner) and more attention would move the dial here from good to great.