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Port Phillip Estate

14.5/20

Contemporary$$$

Build it and come they do, to this dramatic, sweeping limestone rammed-earth winery and restaurant, which curves around the ridgeline. While Sandro Mosele's wines are a big part of the appeal, the sleekly modern, almost austere dining room, offering sweeping views over the vineyards down to the bay, has its charms too. The modern European menu aims for similar drama and gravitas, but sometimes overplays its hand, such as shards of jamon Iberico, with cheddar farinette (it's French for pancake), draped over crunchy-but-weary white peach that's lingered on the menu well after its summer peak. A sculptural arrangement of pork belly, cheek and trotter sausage is a more adept display of matters piggy. Smoothly attentive service makes dining a pleasure, while crisp-skinned bass groper fillet shines amid a lemon-dressed medley of mussels, octopus and smoked potato. A $35 two-course kids' menu of meat, salad or veg and ice-cream seems rich, but then so is the grown-up's pear tarte tatin for dessert.

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