Porteno

Porteño
PorteƱo 

358 Cleveland Street Surry Hills, New South Wales 2010

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Opening hours Lunch Sun, Dinner Tues-Sat from 6pm
Features Accepts bookings, Bar, Events, Gluten-free options, Groups, Licensed, Private dining, Vegetarian friendly, Wheelchair access
Prices Expensive (mains over $40)
Chef Elvis Abrahanowicz, Ben Milgate
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 02 8399 1440

Porteno is the ground zero of dining with a difference. Crowds line up each evening to see the be-quiffed owner/chefs play ringmaster over a glowing fire pit with whole carcasses stretched on an iron asador frame. Suckling pig sets the gold standard. soft white meat with crackle like glass, a jug of salty juices on the side. From the parilla (charcoal grill) come beef short ribs - slather them in the spicy chimichurri - and fragrant house-made morcilla with soft swatches of red pepper. But Porteno is no mere carnivore's paradise. Fried cauliflower with chickpeas and silverbeet is guilt and virtue combined; provolone with soft polenta is oozingly comforting. Dessert? Short-crust apricot and chocolate tart with muscat and creme fraiche ice-cream is a worthy end. If you're in a generous frame of mind after dinner, head upstairs to the bar and let some of those eager punters still queuing hopefully at the door have their moment in the sun.

www.porteno.com.au